About Alderney
For many, the first glimpse of this small northern outrider of the Channel Islands will be seen towards the end of a crossing for the UK south coast. The trail of shipping lies behind and as the island comes into view, concentration is very much focused on tidal streams that are among the fiercest in Europe. The area between the Casquets and Alderney Race has something of a reputation as a ship’s graveyard and should be approached with respect and caution.
Once safely moored in Braye Harbour, visitors will discover a peaceful, unpretentious island with a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Although only 8 miles from the Normandy coast, the feel is more English than French – the legacy of 160 years of occupancy by English garrison troops and a total evacuation during the last war.
To the Romans, Alderney was Vecta Riduna and its native Ridunians. They established a station at Longis (Longy) Bay, which became the island’s first port until it silted up in the Middle Ages.
The era of privateering brought wealth to the island and led to the building of the Old Jetty at Braye in 1736.
The Great Admiralty Breakwater was constructed in response to the threat from France in the 1736. Like St Catherine’s Bay in Jersey, it was intended to enclose a large harbour to shelter the British Fleet. The plan was abandoned but the breakwater was completed to a length of 4,800 feet in 1864. By 1900, Atlantic rollers had undermined most of it and the outer 600 m (2,000 ft) was abandoned. Maintenance of the remaining 900 m has been a constant and expensive battle against the elements ever since. The cost is covered by the States of Guernsey as the Bailiwick’s contribution to Britain’s defence of the islands.
Alderney is famous for its seabirds, especially the gannet. About 5,000 pairs nest on the Channel Islands’ two gannetries, Ortac and Les Etacs (Garden Rocks) both west of Alderney.
Ashore
With over 40 miles of walks and paths the best way to discover Alderney is on foot or by bike.
The Alderney Visitor and Wildlife Information Centre (Phone 823737) in Victoria Street, St Anne, provides advice and leaflets on recommended walks and bird watching tours. There are several historical sites worth visiting including the Victorian forts and more recent German fortifications and bunkers.
The less energetic can hire a car or use the seasonal bus service that calls at the harbour. Alderney has the only working railway in the Channel Islands. This runs at weekends in Summer between Braye harbour station and the north east coast. From the station at Mannez you can take a short walk to visit Quénard Point lighthouse.
Beaches
The most accessible from the harbour are Braye bay and further east Saye (pronounced ‘soy’), Arch and Coblets. On the south coast Longy Bay is reputed to be the best on the island.